12/02/00  Punakaiki is famous for the Pancake Rocks.  These amazing structures are made of limestone that has been eroded by water over the centuries to resemble stacks of pancakes.  A paved trail makes exploring easy (particularly for wheelchairs).  In the right conditions (big storms), blowholes shoot up water, but we didn't see any.  Big storm vs. sunshine?  Hmmm...give me sunshine!  We head south and stop at the house of one of Neale's friends.  They live on the beach with their own spring fed pool.  Neale and a few others head to the rocks to collect mussels for dinner while the rest chat with the owner.  He's a big Ducati fan and has traveled around the world on his motorcycle.  After saying goodbye, we head to Fox Glacier and make arrangements for a full day glacier hike for most people, while Andrew, Heather, and Neale opt for kayaking in Okarito Lagoon.

12/03/00  We get our glacier boots and I know I'm in trouble.  The boots have to be at least a EEE.  I put on four pairs of socks and hope for the best.  Our guide looks like he's made of iron.  He carries a big ax to carve out footholds in the glacier like it's a trowel.  We walk for about a mile before we reach the glacier, then change into crampons and walk on the glacier itself.  It's amazing!  I can walk up a 45 degree angle with no slipping!  We start climbing, working our way higher and higher.  Our guide decides to wander off the beaten track and soon has us going up, down, and across crevices.  Sometimes we wander back to the main paths so we can cross some of the larger gashes in the ice, but for the most part we are well away from everyone else.  We check out an ice cave, stop for lunch, and then continue on.  All in all, it's a great hike except for some sunburn and my poor feet!  No blisters, but are they ever sore!  Back in town, we all hit the internet café and grab a bit to eat.  Mmmm...ice cream!  Back in the van, we give our guide a lift back to his place (he normally runs the 3 miles if he can't bum a ride) and go on to our campsite in Okarito along the beach.  Dinner is a hangi, which is like a luau.  You heat up stones in a pit, then remove the ash, put in the dinner, wrap everything up in towels, cover in sand, and cook for 2 hours.  Needed another 30 minutes but it was still good!  After dinner, Neale invites us to sleep at a nearby overlook.  He promises that the morning view would be stupendous.  Heather, Andrew and I agree to join him.  Wait a minute - this is Crazy Neale we're talking about.  Make that a 50 minute climb using flashlights for the last bit!

12/04/00  We wake up as dawn approaches.  Neale is 100% correct about the view.  Mounts Tasman and Cook greet us in the soft light of daybreak.  We enjoy the view, then head back to camp for breakfast.  Today we begin our 3 day hike along the Copeland Track to Welcome Flat hut and hot pools!  The tramp is 17 km each way (10.2 miles).  Our first task is to cross the river.  Most change into Tevas, but I don't have any so Andrew and I found enough rocks in a row to hop our way across and stay dry.  We wait as everyone else change shoes again.  The Copeland Track follows the river much of the way.  We set a fast pace, as we all want to soak the hot pools <i>now</i>!  On a map it doesn't look too bad, but in reality it's more difficult.  There are a lot of ups and downs (but more ups) plus a section covered by avalanche debris.  Many streams empty into the Copeland River.  Most are very small, but when the rains come, these rivers can quickly swell and become raging chutes.  Fortunately, the dangerous streams have suspension bridges across them.  One bridge you had to use was across Architect Creek, the rest we were able to skip by boulder hopping across the streams.  This was a good thing as several bridges required a detour.  We arrived at Welcome Flat Hut, which is almost a hotel.  The first to arrive were Matt, Alex, Luc, Andrew and I.  We immediately dropped our packs and made a beeline for the hot springs.  Ahhhh!  This is the life!  Wisps of steam hang over the green-gold water.  You can coat yourself in mud or just soak up the heat.  There are three pools that can be temperature controlled by means of dams and channels.  You just have to keep your head above the water, because of some dangerous stuff that lives in the water (and is prominently posted).  We sat in the coolest one (still hot) and relaxed for a while...until the sand flies became rather annoying.  We then headed back to the hut, met the others, and checked the place out.  The hut is amazing for being in the middle of nowhere!  It's next to the hot springs and boasts two stories, beds for 30 (you can pack more in, which we had to), running water, and - get this - <i>flush toilets</i>!  The views are amazing - you can see Sefton (3157 m), Footstool (2765m) and numerous smaller peaks like Fang (an appropriate name at 2098 m).  After dinner, half of us head back to the springs.  Neale (who used to be a warden here) makes a few modifications to the water flow, reducing the temperature enough to allow us to brave the other two pools.  One is very muddy, while the other is deeper and very pleasing.  We sit, talk, soak, and watch the stars. Best of all, it's bedtime for the sand flies, so we enjoy a very pleasant evening.

12/05/00  Today's hike is an exploratory one.  We're following a small stream called Creamy Creek up the mountainside.  At one inviting spot, we stop for a swim underneath a waterfall.  The water is cold!  Continuing our scramble up the mountain, we boulder hop and weave our way through bushes.  I take a wrong turn and end up climbing a dry waterfall.  We end up at a scenic overlook near a snow pack (and this is the equivalent of June in the US!).  After a leisurely lunch and nap, we head back, stopping for another swim.  Neale persuades Andrew, Heather and I to join him on a detour to check out an apple tree he is trying to help grow better.  He's borrowed Alex's Swiss army knife with a small saw to do some pruning.  After a game of hide and seek (yeah, I'll try anything), we head back to the hut and another soak.  

12/06/00  An utterly gorgeous day yesterday turns to overcast skies and drizzle today.  Neale insists we hike as a group (in case stronger rains elsewhere cause flash floods), so the slower pace makes me much more observant about the flora and fauna.  I don't know if it's the pace or the rain bringing out the colors, but I realize that the trail goes through some amazing scenery!  The ferns and mosses amidst the trees give the place a depth and beauty that I haven't found on my US hikes.  I end up trailing everyone as I take picture after picture and simply enjoy the views.  All too soon the hike is over and we're back at the van.  We head south, now in the pouring rain.  Neale puts it to a vote:  camp on a beach or stay in a hostel.  Not surprisingly, the hostel wins!  Hot showers and a good meal behind us, we are all ready for bed.