Kilauea Iki Trail was the highlight of my stay at Volcanoes National Park. It starts at the Kilauea Iki Overlook or the Thurston Lava Tube, snakes along the crater rim, then descends down to the crater floor and returns through a rain forest. The hike is about 4 miles, takes a couple of hours, and descends 400 feet. It's a moderate hike, with the ascent being the difficult part. If you're not up to that, a walk along the rim offers several viewing spots.

The Park Service recommends going in a counter-clockwise direction. I prefered the opposite way, as you can experience the size of the crater, see the 1959 vent from afar, and then check out the details within the crater. Plus, Thurston Lava Tube makes a nice diversion and has restrooms/water. Up to you!

The History  It's hard for me to believe, but on November 14, 1959, Kilauea Iki was a 600 foot deep crater. A week later, it was less than half that depth. A lake of molten lava 335 feet deep made up the difference. The lake soon expanded, fueled by over a dozen eruptive phases, each producing a fountain of molten lava shooting up into the air. The tallest was 1900 feet! The debris crossed the width of the crater, covering the far side with lava. Perhaps even more impressive are the numbers: millions of cubic yards of lava were ejected. Interestingly, much of that was "recycled" - the lava drained back down below the surface, only to be shot back up again.

The Hike  If you head to your right from the Kilauea Iki Overlook, you'll circle partway around the crater. The section has its ups and downs, all very easy. Depending upon the weather, the trail could be muddy. At the many viewpoints, check out stark landscape below. You can see the trail across the floor, thanks to the countless feet that have polished that section of lava smooth. Note the crater walls and note the "bathtub ring." I had first heard of this in nature while visiting Lake Meade...now I find people have applied the term to the "high lava mark" of the 1959 eruption. Towards the end, you'll get a great view of Pu'u Pua'i, a massive hill of ash that formed downwind of the vent...and now is helping fill that same vent in as erosion plays its continuing role in shaping the landscape. (The photo of Pu'u Pua'i is upper right one.)  The Pu'u Pua'i Overlook (going clockwise around the caldera, it's the next stop past Thurston Lava Tube) offers a view of the rear of the hill and the ash that was deposited.

Descending down via a series of steps, we reach the crater floor. It's a whole other world here. Parts remind me of a smooth parking lot, minus the stripes. In others, the lava is heaved up in jagged blocks with steam rising through the cracks. We're definitely not in Kansas anymore! For a far out experience, bring some hot dogs and cook them over the steam vents!

Continuing on the trail, we reach the end of the valley floor and enter...a rain forest! Yep, from dry and windy to damp and humid. I feel the sweat the crater floor breeze hid. We hit a series of switchbacks, steep enough that I use the excuse of picture taking to rest for a bit. We see quite a few native plants, including hapu'u tree ferns and even more ohi'a trees, this time much taller than what we saw on the crater floor.