Four of us got together for this trip: Mike and Richard from Las Vegas, Matt from Chicago, and yours truly. We left at 5:30 AM from Las Vegas and headed south. Just before the Hoover Dam, the road was blocked and we were diverted to the side and inspected for explosives or whatever before being allowed to proceed. This was new from my last time here, just after September 11. After a quick stop in Kingman, on we charged and arrived around 9:30 at Hualapai Hilltop, the end of the road and the start of the hike. Here we did a little weight re-distribution (somehow my pack seemed to be the heaviest...) and started walking. The temperature was already warm!

In the first 1.5 miles, the trail drops 1100 feet, from 5200 to 4100 feet, with most of that in the first half mile via a series of switchbacks. Hey, it's easy! (Who cares about the ascent!) The colors of the rock are muted - various shades of gray predominate near Hualapai Hilltop, while further down the colors start to emerge. If I read the guidebook correctly, the top part is the Toroweap and Coconino formations while the Supai Group contains more of the colors. All told, you pass 350 million years of history on the descent.

The trail then enters a drywash and descends 1300 feet (2400 feet total) to Havasu Falls. Along the way, the colors of the rock become more intense...as does the heat. We take shelter from time to time in what shade we can find, usually against one of the canyon walls. Surprisingly, the heat doesn't bother me too much. I thought that the cool summer we had in Pennsylvania would have left me suffering here in the canyon, but obviously not...for which I'm very grateful! About halfway through, we agree to split up, with Matt and I pressing ahead to get a good campsite and Mike and Richard taking their time.

Around mile 6 (there are stakes every mile, but they can be easily missed), Cataract Canyon comes in from the right, and we bear left towards a forest of cottonwoods. We hear the sound of rushing water, and soon come to the stream that feeds the waterfalls. Trappings of civilization also emerge, beginning with a bridge. We pass several houses (complete with satellite dishes, horses tied to gateposts and lots of dogs lying around) and the ring where they have the Peach Festival, then reach "downtown" Supai and the Tourist Office.

There, we check in, pay our balance, and visit the store for postcards. Hmmm...huge line...guess we'll pass on the postcards. Next door is the post office, the only one serviced by mule train. A few houses, several kids playing, and quite a few dogs later, we reach the end of the village. The sound of rushing water gets louder, and we see some rapids and then...and then we see Navajo Falls, the first waterfall. If you have time, check it out. Not many people visit it, but it's quite nice up close. Just a little further, we descend past Havasu Falls, and the sight of that waterfalls has visions of a wonderfully cooling swim dancing in our heads. Soon we reach the beginning of the campground and choose our campsite - shaded and not too far from the spring. It's also well away from the fragrant pit toilets located up on the hill between the campground and Havasu Falls. There are some campsites near (in two cases, very near!) the toilets, and there's no way I would want to stay in them!

Matt and I set up the campsite and get dinner ready. I pull out bag after bag of food from my pack. We decide on chicken with onions and olives that I had dehydrated the week before. When Mike and Richard arrive, we welcome them with Gatorade and some yummy appetizers. Then off to the Falls!

The water is a bit on the cool side, but definitely refreshing! We swim around behind the waterfall, then shoot out through the falls. I find a comfy spot on the travertine wall that forms the pool under the falls - leaning back, the water pouring over the top of the wall pummels my shoulders. Ahhh...just what you need after carrying a heavy pack 10 miles!

Refreshed, we head back to camp to prepare dinner. Quicker than you would believe, we had a friendly dog lying down in one corner of the campsite. Sun-dried tomato spread, two kinds of cheeses, wine, French bread and the chicken dinner. Perfection! Then there was dessert...