Just outside Zion National Park is the town of Springdale, Utah. A couple of years after my first trip to Zion, I discovered the Fatali gallery there. Michael Fatali is a very gifted landscape photographer who does most of his photography in Utah and Arizona. I recognized quite a few of his photos, as many were of the surrounding region including my favorite escapes from Vegas - Zion and Bryce. But there were also some absolutely stunning photographs of bright yellows, oranges, and reds. What could this be? And how were such colors possible in nature? They must be fake! "This" turned out to be Antelope Canyon, and no, the woman running his gallery insisted that these colors were natural. I had to see for myself, particularly when I learned that Antelope is an easy day trip from Zion.

(Michael Fatali upset a lot of people after admitting that he started fires without a permit in 1997 and 2000 in Arches and Canyonland National Parks. One of the fires damaged Delicate Arch, perhaps best known for being on Utah's license plate. The fires blackened some of the red sandstone and paraffin oil soaked into the rock. While the damage is mostly removed, it's still visible. A nature photographer - by his very profession - is supposed to promote appreciation of the environment. Michael's actions showed a disregard for the most basic concepts of Leave No Trace in a quest to get the perfect unnatural photograph. Despite this, I'd encourage you to visit his gallery and perhaps pick up a few places to visit or some ideas on how you can take better pictures.)

My trip to Antelope Canyon opened my eyes, first to the wonders of slot canyons, and second to the potentially dramatic differences between what my eyes see and what film records. Antelope Canyon is probably the most photographed slot canyon in the US, and rightly so. The sandstone rock is very soft, and the periodic flash floods have carved undulating curves into it. These curves pick up the light and almost glow. When put on film, the colors are intensified, making unbelievable images. I have no claims to being a great photographer - my camera is digital and at least two or three generations behind the ones today. However, my photos of Antelope Canyon have wowed my friends into thinking I could be the next Ansel Adams. NOT!

Location: Antelope Canyon is located a few minutes southeast from Page, Arizona on Highway 98. There are two parts to the canyon, the Upper (also called the Corkscrew) and the Lower. Heading from Page, Upper Antelope Canyon is on your right while Lower Antelope Canyon is on the left (take the first road on the left past Upper Antelope Canyon and then make another left onto the dirt road a couple hundred yards up). They are incredibly beautiful and - as far as slot canyons go - easy to visit. No rappelling gear or wetsuits required!

Getting in: Antelope Canyon is located on Navajo Nation land. You pay a $5/day permit fee that is good for both the Upper and the Lower. You then have to pay an entrance fee, which when I was there cost $12.50 for either one (so $17.50 if you visit one or $12.50 + 12.50 + 5 = $30 if you visit both in one day). It's expensive compared to my $50 annual National Park Pass, but the beauty of Antelope Canyon makes it more than worthwhile. No matter which one you visit, make sure you bring plenty of film and a tripod. If you are using a digital camera, bring extra batteries!

Most people visit Upper Antelope Canyon. It has two advantages: first, mostly level ground, and second, the beams of light. The floor is fairly level and sandy. For the most part, it's wide enough where you can maneuver easily and is accessible to most people. When the sun is in the right position, usually around 11:30 AM or noon during the summer, its rays cast beams of light that illuminate small portions of the floor. The disadvantage, though, is that Upper Antelope is infamous for the number of people all trying to get that ideal shot (and without anyone in the picture). I've also heard that there is less light, so a tripod is a must. To visit Upper Antelope, either drive to the entrance and catch a lift from one of the Navajos to the canyon, or take a tour from Page. Your ticket gives you one hour there, but you can buy more time for $5/hour.

As I prefer to do things at my pace, I go to Lower Antelope Canyon. You just have to drive to the entrance and one of the Navajos will take you to the start of the canyon, a couple hundred yards away. The visitors on a peak summer day here might number 50. Compare that with 15 people on a tour group going through the Upper every few minutes! I think the flowing walls are more beautiful here, and the sunlight that filters in makes for some amazing colors. You can shoot here throughout the day, with the worst time being at midday. However, it's a little more challenging to get around. There are several ladders, and the canyon has a lot of twists and turns. The ground is muddy in areas, and the canyon is not for those who are claustrophobic. If none of this bothers you, then I would strongly encourage you to visit the Lower over the Upper, particularly in the summer!